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Marcus Wijaya
From grilled stingray on the beach to live lobster tanks in Waterfront City, Batam's seafood scene is the island's best-kept culinary secret.
Batam sits in the middle of the Strait of Malacca, one of the world's most productive fishing grounds. The result: extraordinarily fresh seafood, cooked in the Malay-Chinese style that defines Indonesian Riau cuisine, at prices that make Singaporeans come back every month.
Waterfront City's strip of seafood restaurants is Batam's answer to Singapore's East Coast Seafood Centre – but cheaper and louder. Order chilli crab, black pepper prawns and butter clams. The restaurants all have live tanks so you can point at what you want.
The night market stalls in Nagoya serve a different register of seafood – more casual, more local. Grilled stingray (ikan pari) wrapped in banana leaf, mie goreng seafood loaded with cockles, and satay padang with peanut sauce are the must-orders.
Drive out to the Barelang area and you'll find small family-run restaurants serving whatever came off the boats that morning. No menus, no English, extraordinary food. Point, smile, eat.
Non-negotiables: udang bakar (grilled tiger prawns), kepiting saus tiram (oyster sauce crab), cumi goreng tepung (deep-fried squid) and ikan bakar (grilled fish, ask for kerapu/grouper). Budget SGD 20–35 per head for a full spread.